need first-hand input about the R1200RT vs R1100RT (or others)

[cruisin]

I am in the process of replacing my '98 R1100RT and would like to hear from those who own various year models of the R1200RT. I figure what better way to get the real scoop than to hear from actual owners with first-hand experience. I prefer not to have any "I have a friend whose uncle's cousin had this or that happen" type of responses -- first hand experience only please.

I am also in the process of reading as much as I can here and on various other maintenance threads and all of the various topics both here and on other websites, but that is gonna take a while.

A few specific questions (below) come to mind but I have just started looking, so any others you think are critical in helping me with a decision of why I should choose an R1200RT over another low-mileage R1100RT will be appreciated. The things I am pretty sure I will like about the newer RT are the lighter weight, factory lowering options (if I can find a used factory lowered model), and increased performance. Although I am not nearly as concerned about high performance as I am two-up touring ability with comfort for my wife.

Also, I am not in a huge hurry, so even if this takes several months or even a year or two, I'm OK with that. In fact, if I end up leaning toward the later years ('08 and '09) it will likely be a year or two before the prices are at a level I can afford.

Specific questions that I have:

1. what year did they get away from the sealed final drive (or have they)?

2. have the problems with the electronic key security system been resolved?

3. what year has the simplest and most reliable braking system?

4. pros and cons of traction control

5. how does the new RT compare to the 11xx series for weather protection? (very important for me as my old RT was my winter ride) Please answer this only if you actually owned an 1100 or 1150 before owning an R1200.

6. how low is the factory lowered model? (not just the factory numbers but seat of the pants if you have a short inseam of 28" or less.)

7. pros and cons of the adjustable suspension system.

8. difficulty in various DIY maintenance chores. (I have been turning wrenches on bikes since 1968, so I have pretty good skills here as well as a good set of tools and very knowledgeable sources to draw information from).

no doubt, I have left something out but you guys will probably cover it any way.  I'm also not dead-set on a BMW; meaning I am open to comparisons of other good sport touring bikes like the Honda ST1300, Yamaha FRJ, Kawasaki, Moto Guzzi, Triumph, etc. But please (again) first hand knowledge from ownership of both bikes being compared, not what you have heard from someone else or what you 'believe' based on owning one and just reading about another.

thanks in advance for the input.
klc

[Renegade]

Ping my dad.  LastInLine, or email him   janenalan (at) fuse.net

He upgraded last year. 

[Last-in-line]

36,000 miles on R1100rt, 8,000 miles on R1200rt

1. what year did they get away from the sealed final drive (or have they)?
my 2007 has a drain at 9 oclock.  You remove rear wheel, remove a bolt or two, tilt drive and drain.  Later models put the drain at 6 oclock.  They now reccomend changeing every 24,000 miles.  some people think 12,000

2. have the problems with the electronic key security system been resolved?
Mine was replaced under warranty before I had a problem.

3. what year has the simplest and most reliable braking system?
207 started the year of partial linked, no servo system.  Pretty much like the 1100 except front brake adds some rear, rear brake is not linked to front.

4. pros and cons of traction control
Don't have it, not sure I would need it.

5. how does the new RT compare to the 11xx series for weather protection? (very important for me as my old RT was my winter ride) Please answer this only if you actually owned an 1100 or 1150 before owning an R1200.
Protection is basically the same.  ii do use a big cee baily windshield because i'm 6 ft 4.  Ther are additional little wings you can buy from wunderlich, but I have not felt the need.

6. how low is the factory lowered model? (not just the factory numbers but seat of the pants if you have a short inseam of 28" or less.)
  Don't know
7. pros and cons of the adjustable suspension system.
 I have standard suspension and I will upgrade to ohlins when these shocks are gone.  My 1100 with about 30,000 miles on the ohlins rides better than the 1200 stock
8. difficulty in various DIY maintenance chores. (I have been turning wrenches on bikes since 1968, so I have pretty good skills here as well as a good set of tools and very knowledgeable sources to draw information from).
1200 may be easier to do some stuff because tupper ware comes of easier.  I did buy a GS911 because it will allow you to do all the diagnostics
through the computer.  You can see if there are any fault codes, you can test switches, you can see the temprature of the cylinders etc, etc.
The engine, and transmission is better.  It SOUNDS better.  All in all, it's a better bike.  Real cruise control is real nice.  Much Much better lighting.  Instrument panel on 1100 was better.
Any other questions?

[cruisin]

thank you,

another question on the final drive; if the drain is now at 6-o'clock (straight down?), did they put a fill port at 12:00 so one does not have to remove it (final drive) to refill again?

[Last-in-line]

They may have added a fill plug. 
On mine, with the rear wheel removed, you remove one screw that is holding the ABS sensor, remove the sensor and that is now your fill hole.  It is now recommended to add 180 ml of lube. (used to be 240 I think)  180 ml is not much, about 6 oz.  Some people have decided that when they replace a rear tire ~ 10,000 miles they might as well change the final drive fluid.  I'll probably do that as well.
By the way, the guy that bought my 1100 now has 85,000 on it and has called me several times to tell me how much he likes that bike.  I'm sure the 1200 will last as long or longer.